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Photojournalist Tom Aviles Blogs from Iraq
WCCO-TV photojournalist Tom Aviles, left; and WCCO-TV anchor Don Shelby.
(WCCO)
Day 8 - Thursday, Nov. 5
Well, it's nothing new by now, but we've had our trip up North to the Iran border postponed due to the sand. We spend our time following up on the three Red Bulls who died from a rocket attack in July. It's a moving experience to see three wooden crosses on the spot where they died. Everyone we talked to, from the General on down, found it hard to hold back their emotions. The Red Bulls are truly a very close knit family who, according to one member, "will never forget."
After lunch we are given good news that we will be heading to a Iraq/Iran border crossing. We follow a group of Soldiers who are working on building a safer and more friendly and technologically advanced border (A building uses two bent spoons as conductors for there main electrical line). We walk down to the edge of the border. After being five feet from Iran and freaking out the Iranian guards we pullback to a more relaxed position. It is here that I notice a little Iranian boy no older than 5, give a young Soldier some cashews. She smiles and walking towards his border he waves back at the Soldiers.
We return to Basra via Blackhawk helicopter, and then we meet the camps Major General Rick Nash. He talks like a father about his troops, and gets very emotional as we talk about the three fallen Red Bulls. He gives us some nice gifts including a coin and towel embroidered with their logo.
After dinner, we head back to the studio for editing. We are half way through the piece on the three fallen heroes when we hear a loud siren go off. I disregard it at first until Staff Sgt. Ben Houtkooper screams for us to get down, cover your ears and mouth, and lay flat on the floor (We were told that a rockets explosion can pop your eardrums so it's important to keep your mouth open and ears covered, and that when they explode they make a V so if you lay flat you have a better chance of avoiding injury).
As I lay on the floor, I start to think perhaps my wife was right about this trip. I thought about the three fallen Red Bulls, and how ironic it was that we were working on that story at this time.
I press record on my camera when Ben jumps up and yells for us to follow him. We rush through a maze of 15-foot (and taller) T-walls (Additional defensive concrete walls that line the entire camp) and rush into a concrete blast box that is about 15 feet long and covered in thick cement. When I'm nervous I find that shooting is a way of taking the focus away from what's going on around me, so I start shooting Don as he sets the scene. Our "Box" mates are much more relaxed, and matter of fact about the situation. They say when an alarm sounds we have about a 50 percent chance of a rocket hitting the base.
We spend an hour in the box waiting for a strike when, to all our relief, the all clear announcement is made. We head back to the studio and I finish up the story with a whole new appreciation for what the men and women in our military are doing for us, and the sacrifice they are making. Thank You.
Day 6 - Tuesday, Nov. 3
Sandstorms canceled our trip north so we spent the day at Camp Basra, gathering video and sound about daily life here. The roads around base are named for members of the camp that have died during the recent conflict, which includes 17 Red Bulls.
Later in the day, Gen. Gerald Lang, who is one of the largest concrete contractors back in Minnesota, took us on a Blackhawk tour of the oil infrastructure around Basra.
After editing and shooting we had a rare opportunity to get more than a couple hours of sleep.
On Thursday, we will be heading north to cover a group of Soldiers who guard one of the biggest border crossings between Iran and Iraq.
Day 5 - Monday, Nov. 2
After the big football game ended at 3 a.m. Basra time, Don and I edited our story and did our first 10 p.m. live shot at 7 a.m. We immediately hit the road in an armored formation en route to Basra Medical College with Minnesota doctors. Our route into the city has had recent problems with IEDs, so our driver and gunners have to be alert at all times. The explosive devices tend to be buried or covered with roadside debris.
With this in mind, I felt a little uneasy when we drove down a five mile road that our military escort, Dejuan Moore, referred to as "garbage alley." This stretch of road was covered with piles of trash as far as the eye could see. Dejuan and the other Soldiers carefully looked at the trash for anything suspicious -- I still have no idea how you do that. As I look at every tire, sheep and rolled up rug with fear, I look over to Don who is fast asleep. Besides garbage there are remnants of bridges and building from the decades of warfare Iraq has endured.
Basra, once nicknamed "The Venice of the East," is finding hope in its youth, especially the students we meet at Basra Medical College. The Minnesota-based doctors, including Col. Michael Rath speak to the students about sharing resources with the University of Minnesota. As difficult as it must be to come of age during the current war, I was impressed by the determination displayed by these students. One student in particular gave an impassioned speech to Rath about her desire to attend the U of M program, and her hope to use that experience for the benefit of her country. Keeping these young minds in Iraq is a key to this struggling countries future.
As we wrap up at the medical college I start having a big headache, and feel like I'm hallucinating. Was it the hookah? Too much time with Don? No. This is what happens when you haven't slept in 52 hours, so taking a page out of Don's playbook I take a very nice snooze in the Humvee as we head down garbage alley on our way back to the base. (Don says that flies were going in and out of my mouth.)
We eat lunch and I start to load the new video and pictures we got in Basra. I manage to take another nap on a sofa in the TV studio, and then start working on the 5 and 6 p.m. news stories, and a couple of Web segments, including an uncut version from the Iraqi medical student.
Don and I then do an interview about the oil issues in Iraq. We load that footage and then work on our 10 p.m. story about the convoy and medical college. I finish editing at 3 am. Basra time, which is 6 p.m. in Minneapolis, and I am now wrapping up my fourth blog posting. The couch in the studio is now calling my name.
Day 4 - Sunday, Nov. 1
After a hectic first two days, I enjoyed a sleepless night Saturday due to jet lag. To make matters worse, I accidentally packed my sleeping bag for transport, and lay freezing cold in the middle of the Kuwaiti desert. Things continued to go smoothly as the security at the airbase we were scheduled to fly out of to Iraq refused to let us in because Don and I were not on their "official" paperwork. Luckily a "bigwig" at the base pulled a few strings and we narrowly made our flight.
We flew into Iraq on Blackhawk helicopters, and witnessed the "tank graveyards," blown-out buildings and other signs of the decades of war in this region. The desert turns into marshlands as we continue north, and as we land in Basra, the horizon is dominated with oil facilities.
Don and I are given a warm reception by the 34th Infantry Division staff at Camp Basra Iraq. The base is completely surrounded by huge concrete T-walls that protect the troops from the many mortar and rocket attacks they endure, including one two days before we arrived.
After unpacking, we headed off to Holy Joe's Coffee Shop, where we meet the troops, and where Don shows off his back tattoo to the delight of the troops. Don served many years in the military (Air Force) and he fits in very well with the whole military culture. He is enjoying himself so much his wife is concerned he may just "re-up."
After hanging with the troops, I feed video at Camp Basra's state-of-the-art broadcast facilities. Spc. Johnny Angelo, and Staff Sgt. Ben Houtkooper are two of the best TV people I could ask for, and they have made these extreme conditions very tolerable. They are just two examples of what makes the Red Bulls such a class act.
My personal guide, Angelo, takes me to the local Iraqi Bazaar where I eat some of the best bread I've ever had, and accept a puff from a very nice Iraqi's Hookah pipe, which causes me to cough for 10 minutes.
The military tries very hard to give the Soldiers all the comforts from back home, and as the clock hits 11 p.m., we head back to Holy Joe's Coffee Shop for the comfort they've all been waiting for: the Vikings/Packers game. I've covered a lot of football parties, but none will come close to the atmosphere at Holy Joe's. Although they are thousands of miles away, this game took them all back home. Click here for the story.
Day 3 - Saturday, Oct. 31 (From Don Shelby)
This is Don Shelby, reporting from Ali al Saleem in Kuwait. Tom has allowed me to barge into his blog.
We have met dozens of Minnesotans transitioning through this base, all dedicated to the mission. We pass signs for Soldiers to fall-in for flights into Afghanistan, Bagdad, Kirkuk and all points dangerous. For these Soldiers, Sailors, and Airmen, it is just another day in the trenches away from home.
Tom and I have been gone four days and we miss Minnesota and our loved ones deeply. We can only imagine what it is like for these men and women to be in harm's way constantly and to be so far away from the people and the places they love. In our conversations with them, we can tell that we represent a part of what they miss. They want to talk about the Twins and the Vikings and the Gophers. They want to talk about the weather and their favorite lakes to fish. We are more than happy to bring that small part of home to them.
We hope to be in Basra tomorrow. Sandstorms have kept flying to a minimum, and though we are just a couple of hours away by truck, there is no way a pilot is going to fly in an atmosphere in which the land and the sky are the same color of beige. They won't fly unless they must. Our trip to Basra is not a must. There are priorities here, and thank goodness, we are down the list. There are much more important missions than getting a couple of newsies in country.
Tom, as usual, is a load. Since I am not reporting anything, and seem, to him a prima donna lazy- boy, I have been put in charge of charging batteries and carrying his equipment. As Tom has reported, we went a long time before we could shower. Neither of us brought a towel. So, when a contractor left one on his bunk, I took it, washed it by hand, and now it hangs drying in the tent. It was sopping wet when I hung it up about four minutes ago, and now it is dry.
We really do have to get to Basra by Sunday night. That is the Vikings-Packers game and the 34th Infantry Division of the Minnesota National Guard has a Wisconsin contingent. Our first story back was to be about the game and the intra-division rivalry. I'd hate to miss that story because of a sand storm.
I hope the next blog entry will be from the cradle of civilization. We are scheduled to be in the Mesopotamian Valley in two days, the birthplace of Abraham to report that part of the fighting duty of the 34th is to protect one of the holiest religious, historical and cultural sites on the planet.
Day 3 - Saturday, Oct. 31
Tom's Blog for Oct. 31, 2009 as typed by Don Shelby for the Homer Simpson-looking Tom Aviles who can't type but three words a minute.
Halloween Day is another windy day here in Ali al Saleem Air Base in Kuwait. After a nutritious breakfast of sand covered French fries and Fanta at the base McDonalds, Don and I looked into taking our first showers in 72 hours.
Since we forgot towels, Don uses a filthy washcloth he found sitting on top of the latrine countertop. Don "disinfects" it with lukewarm tap water. I decide I would rather wait another 72 hours.
We pack up our gear, about 300 pounds, and prepare for our helicopter trip to Iraq, when we are notified that our flight has been delayed due to fog and sand in the air. Our delay turns into a cancellation when the weather turns even worse. The troops deserve a Purple Heart just for dealing with the horrible conditions in this part of the world. They learn the truth of "Hurry up and Wait."
It is bad enough wearing a hundred-plus pounds of gear in the oppressive heat, but the sandstorms make me long for the snow and the mosquitoes back home.
We enjoyed dinner at the base mess hall with our escort, Master Sgt. Rich Kemp. Like many of the moms and dads serving in Iraq and Afghanistan, he is saddened to have missed his two daughters Halloween. But, he knows Taylor and Erica will get all the treats they desire.
Even though we are delayed, the Soldiers continue to deploy in greater numbers today than yesterday. They are forming up in front of placards with destinations like Kabul, Mosul, Balad and all points between.
As I write this, there is still a bit of home here. There is a Halloween party going on behind me. They have two bands, made up of Soldiers with talent just passing through, and, believe it or not, Soldiers have come up with costumes and they've turned one of the billets into a haunted house.
At the transitioning office, today, all newcomers looking for lodging in one of the tents has to perform some talent. There are ways, I am learning, of keeping the moral high that have nothing to do with orders and fighting.
The downside is that the men and women who have been wearing the heavy gear and are combat ready have been waiting at the mustering area outside our tent for three days waiting for transportation to their theaters of war. So, we take in stride the small inconveniences we face, knowing what these men and women are sacrificing for their country, their communities and their families back home.
Day 2 - Friday, Oct. 30
After 4 hours of sleep, I awoke to the heavy snoring coming from Don. The tent was violently shaking, not from Don, but from the wind.
We venture out only to be faced with blowing sand. Kuwait gets many sandstorms during the year, and we are lucky enough to find ourselves in the middle of one on our first day. Sand and TV gear do not mix, and this sand is extremely fine (like dust), and gets into everything including my wallet, mouth and eyes.
Ali Al Salem Airbase is less than 50 miles from Iraq, and serves as one of the largest deployment centers. We meet troops from all over who are gathering for deployments to Iraq and Afghanistan. Among those we meet are troops from the Montevideo based 1st Battalion, 151st Field Artillery Battalion. They serve as convoy escorts from Kuwait to Iraq, and many of them have been here since the spring.
They talk about the constant fear that IEDs cause when they drive through Iraq's desert, but acknowledge that things have improved drastically in the last year. Don and the troops gather around the Humvees and trucks that are armed with mine-detecting devices and heavy machine guns.
Then the conversation starts to get very heated. Don and a Soldier from Western Minnesota argue over Brett Favre and T-Jack (I forget the Vikes' backup QB's name). Don favors Favre's leadership, and the Soldier (a diehard Vikes fan) feels Favre is still the enemy, and T-Jack is the future we should embrace.
The troops hope they will be able to see the highly anticipated Lambeau field game on Sunday, but chances are they will be off on another convoy. The sandstorm settles down, but the base remains active.
Ali Al Salem is truly a city that never sleeps. 24/7, young men and women from Minnesota and all over the U.S. are constantly arriving and departing to the front lines.
Tomorrow we will be leaving by helicopter for Iraq. We will fly to Ur, one of the world's oldest cities, and birthplace of Abraham. As our first day ends I'm enjoying my second Kuwaiti nosebleed, and looking forward to some more snoring.
Day 1 - Thursday, Oct. 29
After weeks of preps, Don and I are off to visit the 34th ID in Iraq.
We departed late Wednesday evening to Kuwait City. As Don sleeps like a baby, I'm amused by the flight crew whispering and pointing, "Is that Don Shelby?" "He's much taller in person!" Why is he flying in one of the worst seats in coach?"(Don has been offered upgrades to 1st class many times, but has always declined.)
Most people on our flight are on European vacations. Some, including a Canadian next to me, are off to work on the Iraq and Middle East oil fields. Checkered in between these groups are U.S. military dressed in their desert fatigues.
Our flight attendant expressed how emotional she is to see these "kids," not much older than her own, travelling into harm's way. She wishes us a safe trip and is appreciative that we will give these men and women the attention they deserve.
After 18 hours including the worst turbulence I have ever experienced, (while Don, once again, was sleeping like a baby,) we arrive at Kuwait International, and go through a painfully-slow visa process before we are picked up by Master Sgt. Rich Kemp of the 34th Infantry Division, who are our hosts for the week. After an hour drive to Ali Al Salem Airbase, Kemp, a Brooklyn Park native escorts us and our 300 pounds of gear to our tents.
Don is the ultimate outdoorsman, so for him tents are fun. I do not share his enthusiasm.
(© MMIX, CBS Broadcasting Inc. All Rights Reserved.)
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